davidni Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 I have just bought an 2004 sherco 2.9 ex works bike but I have now came across the problem of having too much power as I am only 17 and only wiegh around 10 stone and am not great at trials. I used to ride a yamaha ty250 (pinky) and when getting an new bike I just went with my instinct and bought the biggest cc and most power I could find. Allthough now I am realising the extra power could get me into more trouble than it could get me out of. I'm not sure whether I should keep the bike and try and get used to the power or sell it on and buy a 200 beta rev 3 or something like that. Any advice would be appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis_gasgas Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Has it got a slow action throttle on it ? that may slow it down abit for dosage of power. **shudnt this be moved to sherco section ** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidni Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Oops maybe i should have posted it in sherco section is it the moderators that move it? I dont think i do have a slow action throttle but that sounds like a good idea for me. Any ideas how much that would cost roughly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Oops maybe i should have posted it in sherco section is it the moderators that move it? There's a magic forum pixie who sorts these things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidni Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 interesting How do I know if I have a fast or slow action throttle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Slow is black tube, fast is white tube, really fast is aluminum...... Might also look at your timing, slowing down your gearing. 9 X 44 is slow stock, I run my family on 9 X 50. Lots of practice will get you better in control as well. There are some other engine things to do, but just guessing from your post, I would say these items will help you to get it more liveable without any great expense. Probably the cheapest you can do is spend time on the bike gaining throttle control. Oh, so Andy, does that make you a Fairy? Wonder if that translates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidni Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 I checked and I have the white throttle so I think I will buy the black one and that would be more suitable for an amateur like me I never thought the day would come were I would be looking to make my bike less powerful. I will have to look at some of those other things you said as well as a lot of practice. Is it completely unheard of unexperienced 17 year olds riding 2.9's or should it be allright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 Should be fine depending on the level of competition that you want to be at. Most of it just revolves around practice. www.rypusa.com has manuals and tons of tech info for your bike, it is worth taking the time and looking through to familiarize yourself a bit with the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 (edited) The Boyesen reeds tend to smooth the bikes quick response as well. You must PM Nigel Dabster to inquire getting them in the UK! With a slow throttle, the Boyesens, and the timing knocked down just a bit, the 2.9 will purr like a lion, be easier to start, and less prone to stalling! With the 9 tooth front alone, it will slow the bike considerably! Makes 4 and 5 gear more useable on the loop, but may need 2 more often in the sections, I found it standard practice. Ps- proper jetting and airscrew adjustment is a must for smooth throttle response! Not all of us have the last name of Jarvis or Cabestany, but the bike will do well as stated! Cheers, Edited July 26, 2006 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidni Posted July 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2006 Ok thanks for the advice everyone i'll have to get some of these things done and then I will be able to ride my new bike with confidence at last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 You could also put on about 6 stone. I find it calms mine down nicely without all the mods With the slow pull throttle I reckon you'll get used to it. It's much softer than many others. Softer than the Sherco 250 for instance and the Gasser 250 and 280 in my view. Got grunt, but not as snappy. Good luck, I think you'll enjoy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 (edited) Bikespace, try the Boysen's! I'll bet Nigel can get you some for less than a 25 of your quids! Edited July 29, 2006 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidni Posted August 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2006 After riding it for about a week now I am slowly getting used to it and I am getting a slow action throttle too so that should definately help. Thanks for the advice everyone. Putting on six stone is always an option to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gii Posted August 19, 2006 Report Share Posted August 19, 2006 I had an 03 290, then an 05 290. The 03 bike I calmed down by retarding the timing significantly, the 05 bike didn't need it, it was much softer at the bottom end. Costs nothing to try it, if you can borrow a flywheel puller: Remove the plastic flywheel cover and let the water out Use the puller to remove the flywheel. (windy gun helps). Catch the woodruff key, or take it off the inside of the flywheel. Use a centre punch to pop mark alignment marks on the stator and the crankcase (so you can put it back to where it was) Loosen the stator mounting screws and rotate the stator anti-clockwise. Don't do it a little bit, do it a lot, like half the slot at once (you'll see what I mean) Tighten the stator mounting screws. Put the woodruff key back in its slot then slide the flywheel back on Put loctite on the flywheel nut and tighten it up (windy gun helps again) Remove the o ring from the flywheel cover (it will have 'grown' and apply silicone sealant sparingly into the groove Replace the flywheel cover and snug it down - don't distort it by torquing the bolts up to 50lbft! Try the bike, see what it's like. If it's still too sharp turn the stator more anti clockwise, if it's too soft move it back towards standard. If after an hour or so you blue the exhaust, Then it's too soft and you're riding it too hard to compensate, bring it back towards standard. A slight straw or brassy colour for the first 6" of pipe is just about ok. Top tip, whilst the flywheel is off, remove the stator bolts and lift the stator out, then spray the coils liberally (really liberally) with lacquer, helps keep the water out of them in future! Should have mentioned, These bikes only have 5 gears. First gear is the gear of choice for 95% of sections (they will rev really high), I hardly recall using 2nd, it was either first (most sections) or 3rd (long fast hill climbs) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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