nzralphy

Hi NWR Hi from New Zealand. Yes trails is a complete blast. I've done many types of motorcycles and always hang onto my trials bikes. Put a couple of boulders in the garden and ride around or over them for a few hours per week will do wonders for your skills (get the basics right). Ralph

Hi Mike Welcome to trials! Well 30hr is some going in such a short time! practice the basics a lot. Lot n lots n lots - huge hours will pay off! find a bump or a slope and do figure8 in all different angles. Dependant on the gap between the bearing and the hub I would either use some loctite 620 bearing fit which can fill some impressive gaps, or a speedy sleeve. Ralph

Talk to John Lawton at Kapiti Motorcycles he will likely know.

Yes often it is black - trials 4T bikes tend to run a rich first range of carburettor tuning to help with idling through without stalling and a snappy pickup. Typically Beta ships the bikes to pass emissions, I would suggest try lifting the needle (drop the clip) one or two notches and see what the mid-range does (typically it will be stronger). My bike has the idle mix tuned for the day/weather but 2 turns out is not unusual. Also....call the importer and get his advise as he will know what is a good combination

Yup fit the narrow x ring chain. You will likely still have the same chain many years later. Back in the day I adjusted my ORing chain on the first day on SSDT and that was it. Done. Different story for the standard chain guys!

My Beta4T has a lot more character and is more fun to ride over the Beta 2T. For me it balances better and has a LOT more traction at all revs (and it constantly amazes my mates) I'll not go back to a 2T. Canyou do your own maintenance? You need to factor in the valve adjustments $$ by a mechanic. The 4T is quieter and is SUPER easy to start. You never need to rev n 'clean out' the engine like a 2T. The 4T loves to rev - good for hills The first time you ride the 4Tyou will instantly feel and you'll notice approx 3kg heavier engine. After 1-2hrs you won't notice it as you adapt.

That is beautiful mate! I'm really impressed

Stood on your bike and ready to ride you should have 1/3 suspension sag front and back. Try to be accurate with this. Springs get a hammering so check every 6mth.

Move the needle clip to the bottom slot (or the next one up if it "blubbs" in the midrange). These bikes are shipped from the factory very lean in the mid range to get them past emissions. Moving the clip to this position really opens the bike up to a much stronger midrange.

I fitted one of the first Jitse adjusters and the tip broke off in the carb - check for this!

The spacer is either under or over the needle clip and gives another "1/2 clip" adjustment. Also remember that the bike ships from the factory set to pass emissions testing. To do this the mid range is very lean. You can dramatically change the 4T bike performance by raising the clip to the bottom (likely too far) or next to bottom position. The mid range is way fuller, smoother, and more powerful. Jitse make a fantastic finger/wheel screw adjuster for the idle mix

Are you sure it is slap? Yes you can. In fact you can until the piston and barrel are both stuffed.

Do what the manual suggests. 20hr is fine and if you are using fully synth oil (which will last wayyyyyyyyy longer) and changing it earlier then you may as well take your money and flust it down the toilet.

Interested in how far you now have to twist.... can you put a pen mark on the grip and tell me how far you have to twist for full throttle when viewed from the end of the bar? Thanks everso.

Good to know, thanks